ASVAB · Hand Tools

Which hammer is designed primarily for driving nails and pulling them out?

Correct answer

Claw hammer (typically 16 oz for general carpentry; striking face on one end, curved claw on the other for pulling nails)

  1. A Sledgehammer
  2. B Claw hammer (typically 16 oz for general carpentry; striking face on one end, curved claw on the other for pulling nails)
  3. C Ball-peen hammer
  4. D Dead-blow hammer

Why this is the answer

Hammer types and applications: CLAW HAMMER is most common; striking face on one end, curved claw on the other for pulling nails using leverage; common sizes are 16 oz for general carpentry and 20-24 oz for framing; steel, fiberglass, or wood handle; FRAMING HAMMER has straight (rip) claw and waffle face for grip on nails, sometimes magnetic nail starter. BALL-PEEN HAMMER has flat face on one end and rounded ball on the other; for metalwork; the ball end peens (deforms) metal, sets rivets, shapes metal. CROSS-PEEN or STRAIGHT-PEEN has wedge-shaped narrow end for starting nails or working into tight spaces; blacksmith hammers. SLEDGEHAMMER is large heavy hammer (2-20 lb) for demolition, driving stakes, breaking concrete; long handle for two-handed swinging. MALLET is softer-headed hammer (rubber, wood, rawhide, plastic); strikes without damaging workpiece; great for assembling joinery, chiseling (wood mallet on wood chisels), driving stakes, automotive (rubber mallet). DEAD-BLOW HAMMER has hollow head filled with shot or sand; reduces rebound and prevents marring; for automotive, machinery work, persuading parts together without damage. TACK HAMMER is small and often magnetic for upholstery and small nails. BRICK or MASON HAMMER has chisel-like end for scoring bricks. DRYWALL HAMMER has milled face and hatchet-like back for drywall installation. SOFT-FACE or NYLON HAMMER is for delicate work, jewelry, electronics. Using hammers correctly: grip near end of handle for maximum leverage and swing arc (beginners often choke up too much); strike with FACE square to nail head (angled strikes cause bent nails); use arm and shoulder motion, not just wrist; let hammer weight do the work, don't muscle it; eye protection is mandatory because nails can fly back and debris can come off struck surfaces. REMOVING NAILS with claw hammer: hook claw under nail head, pry handle backward; for deeply driven nails place a wood block under the hammer to increase leverage and protect the surface. Larger nails may require a pry bar or cat's paw.
Source: ASVAB SI, Hammers