Which tool is used to smooth and shape wood by removing thin shavings as it's pushed across the wood's surface?

Hand plane: removes thin shavings of wood to smooth, flatten, and shape surfaces. Operation: blade (IRON) extends slightly below the sole (bottom); push or pull plane along wood; blade shaves curls of wood; depth of cut adjusted by tightening or loosening blade; angle of approach is critical (with grain for smooth cuts, across or angled for stubborn grain). PARTS: IRON (BLADE) is sharpened steel cutter, honed to razor sharp; CHIP BREAKER (CAP IRON) sits just above the cutting edge to break the shaving and reduce tear-out; FROG holds iron at correct angle with adjustment screw that moves frog forward/back to change mouth opening; SOLE is the flat bottom that must be flat for accurate planing; MOUTH is the opening in sole where blade emerges; HANDLE/KNOB for two-handed operation; DEPTH ADJUSTMENT (Y-lever and brass wheel) fine adjusts blade depth; LATERAL ADJUSTMENT lever adjusts blade left-right for even shaving width. PLANE TYPES (Stanley/Bailey numbering system): #1, #2 are small and rare; #3, #4 are smoothing planes (9-10 inches) for fine finish work; #5 is jack plane (14 inches) for general purpose; #6 is fore plane (18 inches) intermediate; #7, #8 are jointer planes (22-24 inches) for flattening long boards and jointing edges; BLOCK PLANE is small (4-6 inches), one-handed, low-angle blade (12-20 degree bed) for end grain, chamfering, small adjustments; RABBET PLANE for cutting rabbets (step cuts on edges); SHOULDER PLANE for fine adjustment of shoulder cuts in joinery; SPOKESHAVE is short plane for curved surfaces. SHARPENING the iron is essential because dull plane equals poor results, tear-out, hard to push. Sharpening methods: waterstones (Japanese style, 800-8000 grit progression), oilstones, diamond plates, sandpaper on glass; HONING GUIDE for consistent angle. Final polishing/stropping creates razor edge. ADJUSTMENT: minimal blade exposure first, then advance until paper-thin shaving appears; very small adjustments. PUSH plane with body weight, not just arms; keep pressure on FRONT knob at start of stroke, EVEN pressure in middle, REAR handle at end of stroke. PLANES vs SANDERS: planes leave a polished surface (cut, not scratched); sanders leave scratch pattern (even very fine grits); hand-planed surfaces are aesthetically preferred for high-end furniture. MODERN POWER alternatives: electric planer (handheld) quickly removes material; useful for trim adjustments, door fitting; doesn't replace hand plane for fine work; JOINTER (machine) flattens one face, squares one edge; THICKNESS PLANER (machine) for uniform thickness; DRUM SANDER (machine) thicknessing alternative with sanding rather than knives. Hand planing remains popular: quiet, no dust, can correct issues machines can't, satisfying.