ASVAB · Hand Tools

What is the difference between a chisel and a punch?

Correct answer

A chisel has a sharp cutting edge for shaping wood, metal, or stone by removing material; a punch has a blunt or pointed tip used to drive pins, mark locations, or punch holes (no cutting edge)

  1. A They are the same
  2. B A chisel has a sharp cutting edge for shaping wood, metal, or stone by removing material; a punch has a blunt or pointed tip used to drive pins, mark locations, or punch holes (no cutting edge)
  3. C Chisels are only for plumbers
  4. D Punches are only for boxing

Why this is the answer

Chisels and punches look similar but have different purposes. CHISELS for SHAPING by REMOVING MATERIAL: WOOD CHISELS are most common; flat steel blade with sharp beveled cutting edge; wooden or plastic handle; struck with mallet or hand-pushed; sizes by blade width (1/8 inch to 2 inches plus); types: BENCH CHISELS (general purpose, beveled-edge), MORTISE CHISELS (thick, for chopping mortises), PARING CHISELS (long, thin, for delicate hand work), CORNER/SKEW CHISELS (specialty). METAL/COLD CHISELS are heavy hardened steel; struck with hammer; for cutting bolts, rivets, sheet metal, cold-shearing steel; various shapes — FLAT (general), DIAMOND-POINT, CAPE, ROUND-NOSE for different cuts. MASONRY/BRICK CHISELS have wide blade for splitting bricks/stones. JAPANESE CHISELS (NOMI) have laminated steel construction; very hard; struck on the hooped end; pulled or pushed; renowned for joinery. CARVING CHISELS / GOUGES have curved blades for sculptural work; many profiles. WOOD CHISEL USE: bevel side up for paring (push by hand); bevel side down for chopping (struck with mallet) where bevel acts as ramp lifting chips; KEEP BLADE SHARP like a plane iron; honed to razor; sharpening with stones or sandpaper progression; strop for final polish. Work FROM EDGES INWARD when cleaning out waste. NEVER chisel toward yourself or your hand; always away from body. Cuts should be SLICING (angled) rather than push straight ahead; easier and cleaner. KEEP BLADE SHARP because dull chisel requires more force, slips more, and is more dangerous than sharp chisel. PUNCHES for DRIVING or MARKING: CENTER PUNCH has sharp point; makes small dimple in metal to start drill bits (prevents drill from walking). PRICK PUNCH has finer point than center punch for marking layout lines. DRIVE/PIN PUNCH has flat or shaped end; drives out pins, rivets, bolts; sizes match pin diameter. STARTING PUNCH (TAPER PUNCH) is slightly tapered, larger end; gets stubborn pins started. NAIL SET for driving finish nails below wood surface so head can be filled with putty; various sizes. HOLLOW PUNCH has circular cutting edge; punches holes in leather, gasket material, sheet metal. AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH is spring-loaded; press downward, internal spring releases striking blow; doesn't require hammer; convenient for repetitive marking. STRIKING CHISELS AND PUNCHES: use STEEL HAMMER for cold chisels and steel punches; WOOD MALLET for wood chisels (steel hammer mushrooms wooden chisel handles); wear EYE PROTECTION because chips and shards fly from struck metal; STRIKING ENDS may mushroom (deform) with use; grind off mushroom periodically to prevent chunks from flying off. STORE chisels safely with edge protected; rolling a sharp blade across a hand can cause severe cuts; keep them sheathed or in chisel rolls/blocks.
Source: ASVAB SI, Chisels and Punches

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